Fertilise at the beginning of April and again in mid-June with slow release fertiliser applications at a heavy rate, we recommend the use of our Summer/Autumn blend. Fertilise in September to October with a moderate rate of slow release fertiliser, for this time of year we recommend our Spring blend. As a rule, Zoysia types in general do not need as much fertiliser in summer so for most lawns that’s it: an autumn, winter and spring fertilise. However it may be worth considering further optional applications if your lawn receives very heavy wear from dogs or kids, or you really want a dark green lawn all summer. You can optionally fertilise again in early December, and at the end of February with moderate rates of slow release fertiliser. THE MOST IMPORTANT FERTILISER TIME IS AUTUMN AND WINTER. If you can only fertilise two times a year, autumn and winter are the best times to fertilise Nara™ native turf.
In general, Nara™ native turf can be mown very short or longer depending on the desired finish. If you want a green manicured bowling green type lawn, regular short mowing will achieve that. As a general lawn, fortnightly spring and summer mowing should be enough, unless it is highly fertilised, then weekly mowing may be needed. If you want a native looking lawn with a beautiful meadow effect with its natural looking flowering seed heads, then mow taller every month or two. Mowing practice can also help keep Nara™ Zoysia greener in winter. Leave at a moderate length for most of the year. If after all the recommended fertilising the lawn browns off in winter, lightly mow the lawn. Under moderate frosts and even the odd heavy frost, only the tips of the leaf burns on Nara™ native turf. A light mow removes most of the burn, making the lawn instantly greener. In our trials we lightly mowed around the 20th of July. To improve winter colour and the general health of a Nara™ lawn, it is recommended to dethatch the lawn every second spring. Around the end of August in Queensland or Sydney, or early September in cooler areas like Melbourne, dethatch the lawn. The easiest method is to simply mow the lawn very short and collect the clippings. Another method is to hire a dethatching machine, or simply lightly top dress the lawn.
Watering your Nara™ lawn in a dry winter can also improve it’s winter colour. If the ground or lawn is very dry, frosts have a habit of burning the lawn more. Watering after fertilising also helps activate the slow release fertiliser. In the warmer months, water when the leaf starts to dry out. It is better to apply heavy deep waterings. If you get water on soon after the leaf starts to shrivel, it will quickly green up. If water restrictions prevent you from watering, do not panic if the lawn is at least one year old. Due to its native Australian drought heritage and its deep rhizomes, a mature Nara™ lawn can withstand long periods of drought without dying. It will brown off and go dormant but when it rains again or it is irrigated, it will generally reshoot well and green up. If you live in desert regions or places like Perth with little summer rain, some top up watering is required to keep Nara™ native turf alive.
Controlling weeds in Nara™ Zoysia is much easier than in Kikuyu, Buffalo and even Couch. Firstly, a healthy dense Nara™ lawn will resist many weed types. If a few weeds do invade you can simply hand weed them. If it is a greater weed problem, Nara™ turf is more tolerant to chemicals than most lawn types. The following are some types of chemicals that can be used. These chemicals have different labels in each state or in each country where Nara™ Zoysia is sold, so check label rates and details. Some of these chemicals are available in garden centres, whilst others are mainly available to weed control professionals.
Chemicals that can be used on Nara Native Zoysia
For most broadleaf weeds (flat weeds). Use Bromoxinyl + MCPA (Domestic and Professional), Dicamba + MCPA (Kamba M) (Domestic and Professional), or Spearhead (CLOPYRALID + DIFLUFENICAN) (professional).
For many grass weeds, including annual grasses such as Kikuyu, Paspalum, Mullumbimby Couch and Sedges, use DSMA (domestic and professional).
To kill Nut grass and other sedges use Sempra (professional).
For a combination of some grass weeds and some broadleaf weeds try Monument (professional).
As a pre-emergent to stop weed seeds germinating, for established grass only, not for use when turf is establishing, use Barricade (Prodiamine) (professional) or Ronstar (OXADIAZON) (professional).